23 December, 2015

Tangerines, mandarins, satsumas, clementines

native to: southeastern China
in season: winter

Tangerines are the US term for what Europe calls mandarin oranges (Citrus reticulata, of the Rutaceae family). Mandarins were once imported to the US via North Africa and picked up the name from the city of Tangiers, the residents of which are also called Tangerines. However, when a modern store labels something as a "tangerine," it is probably a Fairchild or Darby mandarin orange, having seeds and a slightly tougher peel. "Satsuma" is the Japanese word for mandarins, now associated with a seedless variety having a leathery skin. These are most often canned, since they're tender and don't ship well. Clementines, often marketed as "Cuties" or "Sweeties," are sweet, nearly seedless, and the easiest to peel. Some sources say clementines are a cross between mandarins and regular oranges, while others just list them as a cultivar of mandarins.

Remember those arils the pomegranate discussion mentioned a couple of weeks ago? Well, tangerine sections are also arils. Tangerine seeds are safe to eat, but unpleasantly bitter.

Like oranges, tangerines are low in calories and of course have no fat or cholesterol. They have even more flavonoid anti-oxidants than oranges and provide plenty of vitamins A and, of course, C. They're also a good source of fiber and provide calcium, potassium, magnesium, and other minerals. Research is also finding phyto-chemicals and other compounds that protect against cancer, arthritis, obesity, and heart disease in citrus fruits.

Pesticides are widely used on citrus crops, so you should wash conventionally-grown fruits before peeling to keep the gunk off your hands. Beyond that, it's not a big concern if you're only eating the insides, but stick to organic fruits if you're planning to use the peel: candied peel, tangerine peel tea, zest....

Read more:
label-style nutrition information for tangerines
a comparison of different varieties of mandarins
mandarins and other citrus fruits at Nutrition and You
oranges and tangerines compared at LiveStrong.com
The Fruit Pages

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Esperanta traduko: this post is also available in Esperanto, because Dana is a language geek.

16 December, 2015

Fesenjan (Pomegranate Chicken)

Serves: 3-4

1 large yellow onion, diced
3-4 Tbsp olive oil
1/4 cup pomegranate molasses*
1 1/2 cups walnut halves, toasted and chopped to a fine meal in a food processor or blender
2 boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes (substitute garbanzos and/or extra walnuts for a vegetarian version)
2 cups chicken broth (or vegetable broth for a vegetarian version)
2 Tbsp honey or agave syrup
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
pinch each cinnamon, nutmeg and black pepper

For serving:
Serve over rice or, for a low-carb version, cauliflower. Garnish with fresh pomegranate arils and parsley if desired.

Cook onions in 1 Tbsp olive oil over high heat until soft, stirring occasionally. In a separate pan, cook the chicken in a little olive oil over medium heat (do this in two batches unless using a very large pan). Once browned, add to the onions. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and add pomegranate molasses, honey, turmeric, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper and walnuts. Simmer for 15-25 minutes, until desired thickness is reached. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed.

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*I'm told pomegranate molasses can sometimes be found at the Olympia Food Co-op; a middle eastern market is the best bet, though. If you have a source of real pomegrante juice that isn't mostly sugar water, you can always try making your own.
(another recipe at food.com)
(another recipe at Food Network)

Adapted from: The Minimalist Baker

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09 December, 2015

Pomegranates

native to: the Middle East or northern India
in season: winter

Pomegranates are technically berries even though the skin and pith are inedible. The seeds and their little pulp sacks, called arils, are the edible part and the source of pomegranate juice. They contain two unique nutrients, both named for the pomegranate, Punica granatum. Punicalagins are powerful antioxidants contained in pomegranate juice and peel and are good for the heart and blood vessels. Punicic acid, also known as pomegranate seed oil, is a fatty acid found in the arils. Pomegranate juice is used against chronic inflammation and may protect against prostate and breast cancer, high blood pressure, arthritis, heart disease, cholesterol problems, atherosclerosis, bacterial and fungal infections, gum disease, poor memory, and even erectile dysfunction. Pomegranates are rich in nitrates that help athletic performance by enhancing blood flow. They also contain phytochemicals that can improve depression and help build bone mass. They contain lots of vitamin C and also pantothenic acid (B5), which can reduce muscle cramps and the insulin resistance of diabetes.

"Pomegranate" means "seeded apple" and they have been used to symbolize health, abundance, and fertility. The internet suggests seeding them underwater to reduce the splatter of the juice, but there's something very traditional and comfortable about picking the arils one by one from a slice as you eat them and watch a Christmas movie or play Yatsee. The seeds within are edible but not everyone likes them. It should also be noted that the tannins and acids in pomegranates can upset dogs' stomachs, so this is a good snack to keep to yourself.

Read more:
label-style nutrition information for raw pomegranates
Dr. Fuhrman
mercola.com

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02 December, 2015

Sweet potato slow-cooker casserole

2 lb. sweet potatoes, cooked and mashed*; or 2 cans (16 oz. each) canned sweet potatoes/yams, drained and mashed
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup dry sherry
6 Tbsp. butter
1 tsp. freshly grated lemon peel
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
dash cayenne pepper
4 eggs

Beat sweet potatoes, milk, sherry, and butter until smooth. Add lemon peel, nutmeg, cayenne, and eggs; beat well. Pour into greased slow-cooker; cover and cook on high 1 hour, then on low 3-4 hours.

Makes about 2 qts.

Adapted from Rival Crock-Pot cooking. Golden Press, c1975. ISBN: 030749263X

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*If using leftover mashed sweet potatoes, estimate the amounts of butter and milk or orange juice already used and subtract from amounts of butter and milk to be added.

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26 November, 2015

Ode to the candied yam

When I was young, candied yams* were a Thanksgiving tradition. After the oldest generation was gone, my father was the only one who would eat the stuff, but it had to be on the table, glistening rust-brown with fungus-white marshmallows. It was reduced to a single yam then, in a 6-inch-square dish which would return to the fridge after dinner with a single corner missing. Jokes about the candied yam -- without an "s" at the end -- became as traditional as the dish itself. By the time I discovered that yams and sweet potatoes in other forms were actually edible, my father was a decade gone and I was in my forties. Funny how childhood impressions endure.

Ode to the candied yam

Oh singular yam, much reviled,
Vegetable more jest than food,
What ill-lived former life has brought you
To this ignominious doom?
Torn from sun-warmed, sleepy soil
To drown in sugar syruped gloom,
Sacrificed to one man's craving,
Set among marshmallow blooms.
When at last the baking's over,
Cut by glutinous silver spoon,
One corner only will be eaten
As noses turn up through the room.
Mashed or fried you're much admired,
Oh, most ancient, noble root,
But you know, because we tell you,
Sugar spoils a savory fruit.

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*Or rather, as I discovered recently, candied orange-fleshed sweet potatoes.

25 November, 2015

Sweet potatoes and yams

native to:
sweet potatoes: tropical regions of the Americas
yams: Asia

in season: fall

Although they serve the same purpose and are used interchangeably in recipes, sweet potatoes and yams are not, in fact, the same thing. However, just in case there was any threat of clarity on the matter, what the supermarkets describe as "Garnet" or "Jewel" yams are in fact orange-fleshed sweet potatoes. For actual yams, you'll probably have to go to an ethnic market. Both vegetables should be kept out of the fridge in a cool, dark, reasonably dry spot.

Sweet potatoes are slightly more nutritious, but both are good sources of fiber, potassium, copper, manganese, iron, vitamins C and B6, thiamine (B1), pantothenic acid and folates. They both have plenty of antioxidants and very low glycemic indices. Yams are somewhat lower in calories; they have more omega-3s and a unique blend of phytonutrients. Sweet potatoes are significantly higher in vitamin A and anti-inflammatories. Yams can actually worsen symptoms of inflammatory diseases such as IBS, arthritis, and gout, but are thought to help relieve PMS symptoms, while sweet potatoes have a less desirable ratio of omega-3 and omega-6 fats.

Yams are of the genus Dioscorea in the morning glory family and are larger and have a thicker skin. They are used in Chinese, Korean, and Japanese traditional medicine to speed healing of wounds. They may also help stabilize hormonal patterns and lower the risk of osteoporosis.

Sweet potatoes are Ipomoea batatas in the genus Convolvulaceae. Conventionally-grown ones can be treated with dyes or wax and should be peeled before eating, while the skins of organic sweet potatoes can be eaten. Boiling is actually a good way of preparing them, because it makes the beta-carotene and vitamin A more available and lowers their glycemic index (it ends up at about half that of a baked sweet potato). For the best beta-carotene absorption, eat your sweet potatoes with a bit of fat or oil (stir-frying is a good option here). People with oxalate concerns should be careful of sweet potatoes, although they're not as bad as leafy vegetables such as spinach.

Sweet potatoes can be eaten raw, but yams contain bitter, unhealthy proteins and must be peeled and cooked. One variety, Japanese yam (Dioscorea opposita) is traditionally soaked in a vinegar solution instead of cooking, which amounts to much the same thing.

Read more:
label-style nutrition information for cooked yam
label-style nutrition information for cooked sweet potato
yams at Nutrition and You
sweet potatoes at whfoods.com
sweet potatoes and yams at Fullcircle.com
sweet potatoes compared to white potatoes at Cleveland Clinic

and, just for fun, here's the classic modern epicLutefisk and yams
Check back tomorrow for my own bit of doggerel about this Thanksgiving favorite (or, if you're a poetry-lover, maybe not...).

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18 November, 2015

Beyond cranberry sauce

Tradition dictates that this is when I should post a recipe for cranberry sauce, but since the internet already has approximately two cranberry sauce recipes per sauce-eating adult on the entire planet, I'll just say that there's no reason to eat the canned stuff if you've got a source of good cranberries since it's about as difficult to make as chocolate milk, but start with no more than half the sugar or other sweetener in the recipe and work up.

Instead, here are a couple of intriguing recipes from Olympia's Bloom Creek Cranberries, who plan to be at the Olympia Farmer's Market at least through the next couple of weeks.
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Kathy's cranberry fudge

1 1/4 cup fresh or frozen cranberries (1 bag Bloom Creek cranberries)
1/2 cup light corn syrup
2 cups chocolate chips
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup evaporated milk
1 tsp. vanilla
1/3 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

Boil cranberries and corn syrup on high 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until reduced to 3 Tbsp. Remove from heat and stir in chocolate until melted. Add remaining ingredients and stir vigorously until thick and glossy. Pour into a plastic-lined 8x8-inch pan, cover, and chill until firm.
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Felix's cranberry pork chops

Mix equal parts cranberry sauce and barbecue sauce. Spoon over pork chops and bake at 350F until done.

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Esperanta traduko: this post is also available in Esperanto, because Dana is a language geek.

11 November, 2015

Cranberries

native to: Northern Europe, Asia, and the US, and Canada
in season here: late fall into winter

Contrary to the popular image, cranberries don't require an actual bog to grow in, although they do need plenty of water and acidic, sandy soil and will grow in one (and what else are you going to grow there?). They're a member of the Ericaceae or heather family, related to blueberries, bilberries, and lingonberries, and grow on low creeping shrubs with thin branches and small evergreen leaves. Cranberries are also called bounceberries because they bounce when ripe (a quality actually used commercially to sort them), and craneberries because their blossoms look a bit like the heads of cranes. The berries float, so flooding the field is the easiest way to harvest them. Most of the big commercial fields sell the biggest, juiciest berries to juice manufacturers, so once again a farmers' market is the best place to shop.

Cranberries were used by Native Americans as food, decorations, medicine, and dyes. The American cranberry, Vaccinium macrocarpon, is the most widely-grown variety, having the biggest berries, but other species such as the European cranberry (Vaccinium oxycoccos) can be found throughout the northern hemisphere and the smaller-berried Vaccinium microcarpum is common in northern Europe and Asia.

Cranberries are rich in phyto-nutrients that offer protection against cavities, urinary tract infections, cancer, neurological diseases, and inflammatory diseases, and may support the immune system in general. They also have a lot of antioxidants and are useful against cholesterol problems. They're a good source of all sorts of nutrients, providing lots of vitamins A, C, E, and K, beta-carotene, lutein, zea-xanthin, folate, potassium, and manganese. They'll turn urine acidic, which helps prevent the formation of alkaline stones in the urinary tract, although the oxalic acid can form its own stones, so be careful if that's a concern for you, and be sure you're getting plenty of water with your cranberries. You should also be careful of cranberries if you're taking warfarin or need to build up minerals such as calcium.

Cranberries are most commonly consumed as juice, but this is not the best way to get all those great phytonutrients. Also, many "juices" are mostly water and sugar, so be sure to check the fine print on those labels.

Read more:
label-style nutrition information for raw cranberries
label-style nutrition information for sweetened dried cranberries
www.whfoods.com
Nutrition and You
Medical News Today
Authority Nutrition

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04 November, 2015

Roots in cream

any combination of celeriac, potatoes, and/or kohlrabi*
whole milk, half-and-half, or cream
sprinkle of nutmeg, optional

Peel the roots and slice into 1/4-inch thick disks. Arrange in an oven-proof dish and add enough milk to just cover, then sprinkle with nutmeg if desired. Cover dish and place on a baking sheet (optional but highly recommended, because chances are it'll boil over and make a mess and possibly a smell; for easy clean-up dig out that old baking sheet you've been meaning to throw out anyway or spring for one of those disposable foil oven liners). Bake 45 min. at 375F, then uncover and bake another 10 min or until slices are tender.

*possibly beets would be good too.

From Dana Huffman.

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28 October, 2015

Celeriac

native to: Europe
in season here: winter

Celeriac, celery root, knob celery, soup celery, or turnip-rooted celery is a member of the Apiaceae or carrot family and is closely related to the more familiar leaf celery. While the stalks and leaves can be eaten -- they're rather tough and strong-flavored -- it's the root we're after here. It can keep for months in the fridge as long as you don't let it dry out, but freezing is not recommended. To use, pare it down to the smooth white flesh and pretend it's a celery-flavored potato. It's most commonly mashed with potatoes, but I like it scalloped.

Celeriac is very low in calories and carbohydrates, and high in anti-oxidants and cancer-fighting compounds. It's good against osteoporosis because of the vitamin K it provides, and studies suggest it limits neuronal damage in Alzheimer's. It has some valuable B-complex vitamins and provides lots of minerals: phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, iron, calcium, copper, and manganese.

It's high in water-soluble fiber, making it a good choice if you have cholesterol concerns. It's also good for the heart and nerves, and can be helpful against urinary problems. Like celery, however, it should only be eaten in moderation by pregnant women and sparingly by people on diuretics or anti-coagulants. If you're allergic to birch or mugwort pollens, (or celery, of course) you may also react to celeriac.

Read more:
label-style nutrition information for raw celeriac
label-style nutrition information for cooked celeriac
Natural Health Solutions has nutrition information and lots of serving suggestions

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21 October, 2015

Pumpkin soup with cheese croutons

2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed or minced
1 lb. (about 4 cups) pumpkin*, cubed
1 medium potato, peeled and diced
1 tsp. dried sage
salt to taste
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
8 cups chicken stock

for croutons:
12 slices French bread**
olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled
grated cheese of your choice -- Parmesan, Gouda, or Cheddar would be good

Saute onion, celery, and garlic in oil over medium heat until softened and lightly browned. Add remaining ingredients, bring to a boil, and simmer 30 minutes or until pumpkin and potato are tender. Puree soup with an immersion blender if available, or in batches in a regular blender. Adjust seasonings and keep warm.

Toast bread under the broiler and brush with oil. Rub with garlic on one side and sprinkle heavily with cheese. Return to broiler and toast until cheese is melted. Fill bowls with soup and top with croutons.

Makes about 6 servings, but I bet it'd freeze.

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*Make sure you're using a pie or sugar pumpkin; jack-o-lantern pumpkins are not particularly palatable. You can also substitute butternut squash if you prefer.

**The original recipe doesn't specify, but I suspect you want small slices, as from a baguette. This would probably also look great done like French onion soup, with bowl-sized slices of bread toasted, oiled, and garliced like the croutons, but then floated on the soup, topped with slices of cheese, and the bowls put under the broiler on a tray to melt the cheese.

Adapted from: Ghoulish goodies / Sharon Bowers. Storey, 2009. ISBN: 9781603421461

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14 October, 2015

Maggot stew

This is a great dish for Halloween dinners, but it's also a very good small-batch stew for all winter. If the orzo "maggots" bother you, substitute something less white and worm-shaped, such as wide whole-wheat noodles or fiori.

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1/4 cup flour
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 tsp. garlic powder (or to taste)
1 lb. stew beef in 1-inch chunks
small onion, halved and thinly sliced
2 cans (14.5 oz.) plain or Italian-style crushed tomatoes
1 can (10.5 oz.) beef broth
1 tsp. thyme (optional)
1 tsp. oregano
3-4 medium carrots, peeled if desired and sliced
1 cup fresh or frozen green beans
3/4 cup orzo pasta

Heat oil in stewpot over medium-low. Measure flour, salt, pepper and garlic powder into a plastic bag, drop in stew meat, close bag and shake until meat is well coated. Dump bag into stew pot, add onion, and turn heat to up to medium. Brown meat, turning frequently, until it begins to look crusty. Add tomatoes, broth, thyme, and oregano. Bring to a boil, then simmer on low for an hour. Add carrots and beans to the pot and simmer another 45 minutes or until carrots are tender. For best effect, cook the orzo according to package directions, drain in a colander and add to the stew pot. Do not stir in too much. It also works to add dry pasta directly to stew about 5-10 minutes before stew is done, as long as there is enough liquid, and let it cook that way but you won't get the abundant shining white "maggots" on the surface when you serve it.

Optional ingredients: potatoes, canned garbanzos.

Adapted from: Gross grub / Cheryl Porter.

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07 October, 2015

Beef and greens soup

1/4-1/3 lb. stew beef, in small cubes (if purchased cut for stew, cut each cube in half)
about 1/2 small onion, diced
drizzle olive oil
plenty of garlic powder or 1-2 cloves garlic, crushed; or to taste
pepper to taste
dash ground ginger (optional)
about 2 cups beef broth
greens from 2-3 beets,* washed, picked over, and larger stems removed; boiled until just wilted and drained, if desired**
generous handful of spinach leaves,* washed and picked over
small handful pasta, rice, or barley, uncooked (optional)

Brown stew meat and onions in just enough oil to keep them from sticking; season with garlic, pepper, and ginger while cooking. When beef is mostly cooked through and aswim in its own drippings, add broth and adjust seasonings if needed. Bring to a boil and simmer until beef is tender, half an hour to an hour in most cases. Add beet greens, spinach, and rice or barley if using, return to a boil, and simmer 5 minutes or so, until greens are mostly cooked. Add pasta if using and continue cooking until all ingredients are done. Serves one hearty appetite as an unaccompanied main meal or two with a side salad and toast.

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*The amounts are not critical; use whatever suits your taste and feel free to include other greens such as kale in the mix. You may need to adjust cooking time for tougher greens.

**If you find beet greens to be unpleasantly bitter, try pre-cooking them like this to draw off most of the bitterness.

From: Dana Huffman.

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